Goa's Kokum Curry serves seasonal specials for the soul

Danuska Da Gama

GOAN SARASWAT FARE

Kokum Curry, run by publisher-turned-restaurateur Sapna Sardessai, who, passionate about preserving the Saraswat culinary heritage, celebrates Goa’s vibrant, rain-soaked rhythm through food.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Places to eat | Photo: Kokum Curry

MONSOON CLASSIC

Delicate jackfruit petals slow-cooked with coconut, turmeric, and a hint of asafoetida, Gharai is earthy, mildly spiced, and aromatic, capturing the texture of meat while being entirely plant-based.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Gharai | Photo: Kokum Curry

RUCHIK KILLA

Tender bamboo shoots harvested during the rains, soaked, cleaned, and cooked with local spices, killa's pungent, slightly tangy flavour is a monsoon delicacy that Goan Saraswat homes wait for all year.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Gharai | Photo: Kokum Curry

CASHEW SEASON FINALE

As the cashew trees shed their final bounty, the creamy insides of sprouted cashew seeds (ghoddka) simmered in a rich coconut curry, accompanied by manshechi sungtta, is a true monsoon indulgence.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Gharai | Photo: Kokum Curry

CRUNCHY COMFORT

Slender slices of spiny gourd (faagla) are coated in a spice-laced semolina batter and pan-fried to crisp perfection. Foddi is comfort food which is light, crunchy, and irresistible.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Faagla | Photo: Kokum Curry

CURRY FOR THE SOUL

Chakho uses raw jackfruit stewed in a thick, peppery coconut gravy. It’s a slow-cooked, soul-satisfying dish that mimics the heartiness of meat, with bold seasoning and traditional tempering.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Chakho | Photo: Kokum Curry

FRUITY FLAVOURS

A vibrant, sweet-sour preparation ansa-pansachi bhaaji (jackfruit and pineapple curry) blends ripe pineapple and semi-ripe jackfruit, and is a festive Saraswat dish served during celebratory meals.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Ansa-pansachi bhaji | Photo: Kokum Curry

MONSOON PINWHEEL

A nostalgic treat across Goan kitchens, colocasia leaves, layered with a spiced chickpea flour (besan) paste, rolled, steamed, and then lightly pan-fried, alluwadis have a soft, flavourful centre and a crisp exterior.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Aaluwadi | Photo: Kokum Curry

WILD MUSHROOM FEAST

Wild mushrooms (allmi), foraged from the forests in the monsoons, and cooked in a robust xacuti gravy. Allmi xacuti, rustic and bursting with the umami of forest produce is best paired with pao or rice.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Allmi | Photo: Kokum Curry

TRENDS MEET TRADITION

Tender moringa leaves, considered a power food today, are strongly aromatic and deeply nutritious. Maskachi bhaaji, is traditionally eaten only till Shravan, reflecting a seasonal mindfulness.

Goa | Goan Saraswat cuisine | Kokum Curry | Monsoon delicacies | Maskachi bhaji | Photo: Kokum Curry

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