Olga from Russia stretches herself with her back towards the sun and throwing beautiful smiles clicks selfies of herself. After a few attempts, she stops and takes a yogic pose.
“I have been coming to this beach for the last seven years. Benaulim beckons not just because it is a beautiful beach but the space it offers for my inner growth. I come for three months every year and return with an uplifted spirit,” offers the 35 something Russian.
Benaulim beach and others in South Goa are seeing a tourism revival keeping locals and visitors happy as the tourism footfalls appear on a smooth road now.
Olga rents a homestay and because of her many visits is familiar with the inner roads, finding no problem whilst roaming around, discovering various villages as she travels.
“I come to Goa because I find it reasonable. I hire a bike when I arrive and except for traffic snarls and undisciplined riding here and there, transport is no problem,” says Olga, who carries herself rhythmically.
Garlic prawns along with cheese naan are her favourite and the lady from Russia thinks food in Goa, compared to other parts of the country and her own, is affordable.
“I love eating out,” she admits and adds, “Eating at food stalls on the road can be a problem. It’s best to eat in restaurants and I normally enter ones that offer a hygienic welcome.”
As the sun begins to set at Benaulim, the beach turns into a promenade for the young and old where stories are shared, experiences relived and chapters added to lives.
There are shacks on the beach that are home to the Russians, English, Swedish, Germans, locals and, now and then, the odd Indian couple hops around to give a transatlantic touch to the village.
“We have been coming for years and in the course of this, have realised that bargaining is best for both – the buyer and the seller. Some people tend to charge us foreigners more. It doesn’t matter if it is a few rupees more. But, if it is too much, there are times when I run away with a steal because I am master in the art of bargaining,” claims Martha from Germany.
There are many shacks and restaurants on the beach and the good from the bad are distinguishable to those with an eye for detail. “How clean a place is, is easy to spot from far and if a place is clean, the food is bound to be good,” thinks Martha.
“The qualities of wines have got better with time and there are places on the beach that serve the best wines found all over the world,” admits Martha’s friend Rex.
Transportation is not a problem in Benaulim. There are rickshaws that ferry three passengers and some that accommodate six and like other public transport systems, prices fluctuate depending on whether the customer is a foreigner or a local.
“I charge Rs 400 to take six people to Margao,” says Mahesh. “I charge foreigners Rs 600 and if you know any, you can charge extra and keep the remaining for you,” observes Mahesh who seems to be a driver from the neighbouring State, happily making a living here.
Public transport is also available through the day till midnight and beyond, thanks to the advent of smart phones. “You can call me anytime and if I am free, I will come,” admits Mahesh.
But for Evelyn and her friend, “there is nothing like a bus ride to Margao for shopping. It is convenient and friendly and not at all tiring”.
The sudden surge of foreigners has locals on a swing and a high that promises to stay for long as most foreigners have begun to loosen their purse strings and South Goa is their first choice as a holiday destination. For it is here that the noise is minimal.