Milagrin Soj's blistered feet bear the silent testament of her unwavering faith. Four gruelling days on the road, 150 kilometres and a burning desire to reach Old Goa to participate in the last novena and then the feast of St Francis Xavier on December 3.
Milagrin, who hails from Maharashtra, has been doing this arduous walking pilgrimage for the past eight years, but this year it is extra special, as the sacred relics of St Francis Xavier are on public display for veneration at the 18th decennial exposition.
“I have been coming in faith to Old Goa along with my 65-year-old husband for the last eight years and we make sure to walk along in a group covering 30-35 km per day. I have witnessed many miracles, and every year my faith grows stronger,” she said.
The group, Milagrin is referring to, comprises over 100 pilgrims that annually walk from villages and towns of Maharashtra to Old Goa. Milagrin hails from Gadhinglaj, while others comes from Ajara and other villages. For these strong-willed devotees, this inspiring journey on foot is one of faith and devotion.
This group from Gadhinglaj, with over 150 pilgrims that included septuagenarians and teenagers, left home on November 29 and reached Old Goa on December 2 as planned to participate in the special mass at 12.15 pm and then the feast of Goycho Saib the following day.
“The entire journey is about prayer, reflection, penance and sacrifice. We would sing hymns, recite the rosary or even walk in silence. We would leave early in the morning at around 3 am and walk,” Milagrin explained.
It is not, however, simple to undertake such a journey on foot. There are other logistics involved. A van followed the pilgrims, carrying provisions and preparing meals for them, though help also came from the locals in the towns and villages they passed by.
The entire journey is about prayer, reflection, penance and sacrifice. We would sing hymns, recite the rosary or even walk in silence. We would leave early in the morning at around 3 am and walk.Milagrin Soj, devotee
Like Milagrin, 77-year-old Antonio Xavier from Ajara in Maharashtra, was also overwhelmed to make this journey. He has been walking to Old Goa for the last 14 years.
“We reached Old Goa on December 2 and after mass, we will be venerating the saint’s relics. It is extremely important for me to come to Old Goa and this year I came with my 15-year-old grandson. He is extremely tired,” said Antonio, who left nothing to chance and exercised regularly to undertake this 150-kilometre walking pilgrimage.
But it’s not just from across the borders that people walk to Old Goa. Many walk from the villages and towns of Goa. Among them is Fatima Fernandes and her girl gang from Quepem, who walked barefoot the entire route to reach Vodlem Goem covering over 50 kilometres to venerate the Goencho Saib, on December 1 and returned home the same day. Their walk is an example of unwavering devotion and physical stamina and a testament of faith and belief.
“We planned for the pilgrimage a few weeks ago and seven of us walked from Quepem. We had one cup of black tea and carried two loaves of bread with us. On the entire route we didn’t eat anything, just survived on the water we carried,” said Fatima, who left home at 4 am, recited a prayer at a chapel near her home and set off to Old Goa.
“We reached Old Goa at 1.30 pm, attended mass and stood in the queue for veneration. On the way back, we took a bus to Margao and got home at around 7 pm. It is like offering a sacrifice and penance,” said Fatima.
Among the hundreds of pilgrims, were Clara and Luis Rebello, from Velim in South Goa, who stayed in the pilgrim tents on all nine days of the novenas.
“We have been staying here and it’s our first time. We have been attending at least two masses daily,” said Clara as she sorts out her utensils. “I have been cooking rice, curry and fish, which is our daily meal. We carried around four kilos of rice for these days.”
For these pilgrims, there are over 10 make-shift cooking stoves (chulahs) used to cook regular meals. For bath they use the washrooms. “We have cold water bath. But those who like hot water for their bath, heat water on the chulahs. We have to gather our own firewood. It’s an experience by itself,” says Luis, as he lies down for an evening siesta on the mat he has placed on the ground.
Some of those walking pilgrims who left, left with a heart full of gratitude and thanked the saint for the strength to undertake the arduous pilgrimage and promised to return next year.