It’s that time of year when any mention of Goa’s fruit scene sets mouths watering, instantly bringing the ‘king of fruits’ to mind. While mangoes remain a hot favourite among both tourists and locals, they come with their fair share of troubles.
The GI-tagged Mankurad mango has passed its peak season in Goa, while some of the renowned Devgad Alphonso mangoes — also GI-tagged and known as Hapus — were unfortunately being dumped in the waste-bins at airports in the USA.
The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) reportedly found “inconsistencies in documentation” related to phytosanitary procedures, including irradiation measures used to control fruit flies, leading to the rejection of fifteen mango consignments exported via Mumbai airport.
Some other mango varieties from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, which were also routed through Mumbai due to the closure of Pakistani airspace for Indian flights, met a similar fate. Who would have thought that a single Trump-era policy could bring mango exports crashing down like a house of cards?
The Xavier and Manga Hilario varieties, which appeared in local markets during the mid-season, are now giving way to the exceptional jam mango known variously as Monserrate Branca, Bardez Mussorat, or Mussorad.
FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH
The Xavier and Manga Hilario varieties, which appeared in local markets during the mid-season, are now giving way to the exceptional jam mango known variously as Monserrate Branca, Bardez Mussorat, or Mussorad — distinguished by its striking traffic-light hues of green, yellow, and red.
The Monserrate mango is the flavour of the season. Whether it is the blushing red Bardez Mussorad or the evergreen Saxtti Mussorad, it is the favoured mango variety for mangada a mango preserve that nourishes us through the lean season for mangoes, the monsoon season.
The book Mangoes of Goan Origin published by ICAR-Goa (now, ICAR-CCARI) lists this variety as Mussarat (synonymous with Monserrate de Bardez). The Saxtti Mussorat or Monserrate Vermelho (Red) is something else altogether.
The Bardez variety has a slightly tangy flavour and has fibres in the pulp, but can still be used as a table fruit. Its red blush gives it a more visually appealing look for display compared to the sturdier Salcete variety. Ripe mangoes from both these varieties can also be used to make delicious mango jam or squash.
The Bardez variety has a slightly tangy flavour and has fibres in the pulp, but can still be used as a table fruit.
A Bardez Mussorad tree, laden with fruits is a beautiful sight. Whether the mangoes are immature or almost ripe, they have a beautiful red blush, much like a bride wearing rouge. The shades of red, yellow, and green on the fruit peel may vary, just like the skin tones and rouge of the ladies at a party.
The fruit is medium-sized, larger and heavier than a Mankurad mango. Its pulp is firm, melting, juicy, and aromatic. At a sugar level of nineteen degrees Brix, it is less sweet than Mankurad (21 Brix) and Manga Hilario (23 Brix)
SEASONAL NOTES
It rained throughout mid-May this year, dampening the harvest. Those fortunate enough to have ripe Mangilar and Mussorad mangoes are now dealing with another problem – worms inside the fruit.
The mango fruit fly, Bactrocera dorsalis, is quite a terrorist and can mess up with the sindoor of the Bardez Mussorad mangoes.
Those fortunate enough to have ripe Mangilar and Mussorad mangoes are now dealing with another problem – worms inside the fruit.
The meteorology department has predicted rain in some places across Goa these days. If human beings feel like singing in the rain or sowing seeds, the mango fruit flies feel like mating and laying eggs in the about-to-mature mango fruits. Fortunately for us, the males can easily be eliminated through the use of a ‘honey trap’.
Experts suggest timely intervention is key. Methyl acetate is effective against mango fruit flies. If you have a Monserrate mango tree with fruit on it now, set up a pheromone trap. There's no point in complaining about worms once the damage is done.
(The author is the former Chairman of the GCCI Agriculture Committee, CEO of Planter's Choice Pvt Ltd, Additional Director of OFAI and Garden Superintendent of Goa University, and has edited 18 books for Goa & Konkan).