Much of the fish produce marketed as ‘fresh’ in Goa, today, is neither fresh, local, nor wild, according to marine conservationist, Dr Aaron Savio Lobo.
At a recent MOG Sundays talk at the Museum of Goa, in Pilerne, he also urged Goans to look beyond the ubiquitous snapper, chonak and kingfish varieties to enhance nutrition in their staple fish-curry-rice.
In his talk, titled ‘It's Raining Fish - Hallelujah!’ Lobo also said that overfishing in the seas off Goa was reducing the ‘catch-per-effort’ ratio in the State, calling for a cap on the number of fishing vessels going out to sea.
“The catch-per-effort is declining. We don’t understand how much fish is in the sea. The issue is too many boats chasing too few fish, which need to be regulated by limiting the number of vessels going out to sea,” explained Lobo.
During the monsoon fishing ban, the Margao wholesale fish market continues to offer seafood varieties like saundale (false trevally) and isvan (kingfish). Lobo revealed that many of these, including popular options like chonak, are farmed in other states and brought into Goa.
The marine conservationist said that there had been an erosion of fish diversity in Goa’s local diet due to class perceptions, tourism demands and market homogeneity. Bland, mass-produced varieties are replacing many nutritious species.
“Some fish look odd, but are perfectly delicious, diverse and healthy, like the tambde balle or the red eel. It makes for a very delicious ambotik curry,” said Lobo. “Locals should go beyond the usual snapper, chonak and kingfish.”
India is now the third largest seafood producer globally, yet it ranks only sixth in wild capture fisheries, Lobo said, adding, that while aquaculture has seen a gain in momentum, wild fish remain nutritionally superior, rich in essential micronutrients like selenium, calcium and omega-3s, nutrients, that are often deficient in farmed fish.
Lobo also highlighted the rich productivity of coastal ecosystems during the monsoons, like estuaries that are fed by nutrient-rich plumes, creating a spawning ground for diverse marine life.
India is now the third largest seafood producer globally, yet it ranks only sixth in wild capture fisheries.
Mudflats and mangroves are important for fish to breed and grow, he said, adding that areas, like the Chapora river mouth are vital nurseries.
Traditionally, Goans relied on dried fish and kanji to satisfy their fish cravings during the monsoon fishing ban. Today, however, markets remain flooded with fish, often imported or farmed, like pangasius, roopchand and the Norwegian Atlantic Salmon, species far removed from Goa’s ecology, he shared.
Dr Lobo also touched on the importance of seafood literacy and gave pointers to identifying fresh fish in the marketplace. “If something smells fishy, it probably is,” Lobo said, adding that while many rely on the gill colour and eye clarity to judge freshness, smell is the most reliable indicator.
He encouraged parents to teach their children to reconnect with fish ecologies by taking them fishing.
“That's what I do with my son almost every weekend. We go out first thing in the morning. I'll take them around, get them to hack a fish. You need to be able to catch, kill and smell a fresh fish, and know the difference between a ‘fishy’ fish and a fresh fish,” he concluded.