The Russian tourists in Goa enjoy the extremes. If they can be found organising markets and enjoying parties in the north, many find themselves at home in the south, where locals running shacks have gone the extra mile and printed menus in Russian.
The Russian return, post the COVID-19 pandemic, started cautiously. The Polish have followed, and slowly, so have other countries that once formed part of the Soviet Union.
Guests from Russia are once again looking at living the luxury life in Goa, and the experiment has seen more bookings at high end resorts, and that has shack owners based around these resorts, making a killing in their kitchens.
“The Russians love their king prawns with vegetables garnished with white sauce. Most of them love their vodka, but there are many who enjoy good wine while dining,” says Dominic, as he prepares a dish for his Russian client.
“I have a lot of repeat clients and newcomers who have been recommended by those who had come before. They are not fussy. If you cannot give them what they want, they know where to find it,” admits Dominic.
The stretch from Carmona to Cavelossim is home to many Russians putting up in resorts along the coast. And for many, “this part of South Goa feels like home.”
“I used to come here before the pandemic, and have started coming again now. I do not see many changes, though some of my friends look old,” Alex says with a smile.
“The waiting staff is new, but the quality of food has not changed,” he assures.
“The flow of foreigners is steadier compared to Indians as the latter generally come during holidays. This is a time for weddings, but not really holiday time. They come for two or three days, and then, disappear,” admits Roncon, who deals with guests at the reception.
Despite the number of clients, the beach stretch appears neglected in the evenings with plants, weeds, empty boxes and plastic bottles seen kissing the shore. The shoreline is not as welcoming as it is in Benaulim Beach or further on.
“This dirt seems to appear only in the evenings because the shoreline looks pristine in the morning. I really cannot understand why it happens,” wonders Alex as he prepares to cycle.
Guests from Russia are once again looking at living the luxury life in Goa, and the experiment has seen more bookings at high end resorts, and that has shack owners based around these resorts, making a killing in their kitchens.
The reason the beach looks dirty, according to a local, Santan, is because the people who are supposed to keep the beach clean leave early from work.
“The beach cleaners tend to finish work fast and that is how the dirt accumulates,” he explains.
The design of shacks on beaches also depends on the type of clients. The bigger the resorts and the richer the clients, the sleeker the beach shacks and perhaps the emphasis on seafood.
“Despite the directives from the government, that Goan food must be served, I have guests who opt for other food, and so, I need to adjust my menu as per the choice of guests,” explains the owner of a shack on condition of anonymity.
“A few guests may like pork sausages, but most do not like or do not order fish-curry-rice. That leaves me with no choice, but to cook continental food. They do not like fried fish or prawns, but prefer them boiled with sauces and that is how I style my menu,” he confesses.
With a number of luxury resorts, guest houses and rent back apartments, life on Cavelossim Street is upbeat from sunset till late night.
The taxi drivers are doing fine – the greed for more is always alive – the shops lined along the street are welcoming many guests and locals and foreigners are bonding a smile.