Worry lines develop in Morjim, Goa, as tourist inflow drops

Faced with a bleak couple of months, as December enters its second half, tourism stakeholders in this village in North Goa peg their recovery hopes on the Christmas-New Year peak week
Empty shacks on Morjim beach.
THE WAITING GAME: Shacks at Morjim wait for customers.Photo: Augusto Rodrigues
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Morjim beach that kisses River Chapora offers a velvet carpet to swimmers, but has not been seeing clean days since the start of the season, with the beach yet to get brushed clean.

As in most beaches, shacks have been up and running for almost two months – there are 10 official shacks – and though the flow of tourists has been steady throughout the year, the first fortnight of December has left many worried.

Empty shacks on Morjim beach.
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Despite the start of charters, shacks in Morjim are seeing low footfalls. “There are hardly any guests patronising the shacks and it is strange. In a way, this has never happened before,” says Albert Fernandes from the village.

“The beach is yet to be cleaned and perhaps, that could be a reason why there are not many people here. The situation is alarming for shack owners who have cost overruns,” says Albert.

Morjim beach is dirty.
DIRTY BUSINESS: With miles of tidewrack and trash, Morjim beach cries for attention.Photo: Augusto Rodrigues

Morjim has been host to guests who want to lie back and enjoy the day after a night of partying at Anjuna and Vagator and was home to Russians before the Covid-19 pandemic.

“A lot of Russians have moved towards Arambol and Kerim, but they normally come for a swim and to spend the day. Apart from the Russians, this has also been a hangout for tourists from India,” says Seby, manager of a hotel close to the beach.

Apart from a pristine beach, Morjim is where kite surfing is taught by experts and many enthusiasts can be seen attempting this in the evenings when the winds are good.

“We have a lot of charter guests, but I cannot explain why they are not visiting the shacks. Could it be because they find them expensive?” he asks. “Russians normally tend to buy booze and laze around.”

Apart from a pristine beach, Morjim is where kite surfing is taught by experts and many enthusiasts can be seen attempting this in the evenings when the winds are good.

“One needs a decent amount of wind to be able to teach kite surfing. The shore is excellent, not very crowded,” admits kite surfing instructor Phillipe. “A lot of Indians and locals show keen interest in learning,” he admits.

Tourists eat and drink on Morjim beach.
WELL-STOCKED: Visitors come to Morjim Beach with their own stock of food and drink.Photo: Augusto Rodrigues

For many locals, the season has not risen to what it used to be prior to the pandemic, and they are beginning to worry.

“Last year was the best post the pandemic, and we expected it to be better this year. However, things do not appear be so,” says taxi driver, Umesh.

Foreign tourists can be seen walking around the village and domestic tourists are seen in rent-a-cars, but for the locals, this is not enough to feed their stomachs. They are beginning to worry.

Empty shacks on Morjim beach.
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“The problem is that the flow of tourists has not been steady. There is a surge during long weekends, and then it drops. The graph fluctuates and that is worrying,” says Felix who runs a coffee shop.

“Most restaurants had a crowd this time last year, but now, the story is different. This year, one can hear music from Vagator or Anjuna, but here, most places are waiting to see a turn in the flow of tourists,” says Albert.

For many locals, the season has not risen to what it used to be prior to the pandemic, and they are beginning to worry.

“A plate of chips is what the few tourists, who visit my shack, order. There are hardly any takers for seafood or even Indian food. Many come with their own drinks and after finishing them on the beach, have chips and leave,” moans Ilhas from North India, who works at a shack.

With half of December over, recovery hopes are pegged on the end of the month when the season is high and it’s time to have a blast.

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