While Old Goa's skyline tells stories of religion, conquest and colonial power, a restaurant, you most likely may not be aware of, is rescripting Goa's food tales one recipe at a time.
If you are driving on the Old Goa to Cumbharjua road, you probably might not notice Adlem Goi, a modest yet evocative restaurant. Located a few metres away from the Gandhi Circle, this place doesn't just serve food; it serves a slice of tradition, a bit of history, Goan memories we all miss, and a feeling of home.
Founded by husband-wife duo Xavier Rodrigues and Joylin Menezes, Adlem Goi is as much a cultural space as it is a culinary destination.
THE NAME SAYS IT ALL
Adlem Goi draws directly from the Portuguese-era name for Old Goa (Velha Goa). Joylin explains, "Every time someone came visiting, they would say there’s no good place to eat in Old Goa and head to Panjim. That stuck with me. Why shouldn’t Old Goa have a restaurant that reflects its own richness?"
FROM EVENT MANAGEMENT TO A CULINARY DREAM
Joylin comes from a background in event management and sales. After marriage, she felt the itch to build something of her own. "Restaurants were booming in 2018. I told Xavier, 'Why not do something in Old Goa?" she recalls.
By August 2019, they had launched Adlem Goi, just months before the pandemic would disrupt their plans. But resilience, community support, faithful Goan customers and a firm belief in their hard work and vision kept them going.
A RESTAURANT UNLIKE OTHERS
Adlem Goi is unapologetically Goan, in look, feel, and flavour. The interiors recreate the warm nostalgia of a grandmother’s house: red cement flooring, white-striped red brick walls, and age-old artefacts like rogdo (stone grinders), and lampiao (lamps) gifted by people and well-wishers. Much of the design was inspired by Joylin's love for Goan history, a passion nurtured by her college professor, Prajal Sakhardande. "Prajal taught us Goa beyond the textbooks. He changed how I saw my own culture," she says.
FOOD THAT TASTES LIKE HOME
Authenticity is the lifeblood of Adlem Goi’s kitchen, and its menu is a tribute to Goan Catholic and Hindu culinary traditions.
While Xavier bets on the restaurant's mackerel curry with Goan boiled rice, his wife says her cafreal is the USP, exactly how her granny made it. "That taste is fixed in my memory, and I make sure it stays alive," she adds.
They source ingredients from local markets and even directly from fishing jetties and local fishermen. The kitchen staff is predominantly Goan, a deliberate choice to ensure the authenticity of masalas and techniques.
Yet, sourcing and retaining local talent is among their biggest challenges, but they have managed to hold on to their Goan chefs.
Xavier rues that Goan talent doesn't want to stay back in Goa. "Goan youth dream of going abroad. Many who claim to be chefs don’t even know how to cut chicken properly or prepare caldin the way it has to be prepared. When asked to make masalas, they come up with chutneys," rues Xavier.
Goan youth dream of going abroad. Many who claim to be chefs don’t even know how to cut chicken properly or prepare caldin the way it has to be prepared.Xavier Rodrigues
MORE THAN A MEAL
Adlem Goi makes a cultural statement for Goa that has helped it attract locals and returning families from overseas who come not just to eat but to reconnect. Xavier recounts the story of a dialysis patient who, despite health struggles, visited regularly with her mother and granddaughter for their favourite alle belle and xacuti.
The restaurant’s bestselling dishes include the kingfish thali, chicken cafreal, and tongue roast. Matured sorpotel with sannas is a daily must-try.
KALCHI KODI (LEFTOVER CURRY)
This dish will certainly remind any Goan of scraping the touli (clay pot) with a piece of warm poie (Goan bread), eager to mop up every last bit of the thick, flavour-packed curry that had sat overnight. At Adlem Goi, Kalchi Kodi is an ode to the golden Goa we are all forgetting, says Xavier. Each bite of the Kalchi Kodi at this place reminds one of the comfort meal that always tastes better the next day.
At Adlem Goi, Kalchi Kodi is an ode to the golden Goa we are all forgetting, says Xavier. Each bite of the Kalchi Kodi at this place reminds one of the comfort meal that always tastes better the next day.
LOOKING AHEAD
The vision doesn’t end here. Joylin and Xavier hope to open a second outlet in South Goa, at Xavier's ancestral home in South Goa, once their child is a bit older. For now, they continue to hold space in Old Goa to serve both good food and hospitality that is slowly disappearing.
"Old Goa is known for churches and temples, and, now, a place like Adlem Goi," says Joylin. "We want people to feel like they walked into their grandmother's home. That’s the real Goa we want to keep alive and showcase to the world."
We want people to feel like they walked into their grandmother's home. That’s the real Goa we want to keep alive and showcase to the worldJoylin Menezes
DETAILS
WHAT: Adlem Goi restaurant
WHERE: Near Mahatma Gandhi Circle, Next to Jamson Wine Store, Ella-Old Goa
TIMINGS: 11 am to 2 am
FOR RESERVATIONS: +91 80808 28478