Stories patiently wait to be unfolded, sometimes tucked in the simplest of things and hidden in the rhythm of everyday life. But, there are a few who can unearth these and bring them to the fore in ways they know best.
Chef Kalpesh at the ASSA House, Assagao, is one such person, who is telling tales that are deeply rooted, and is sharing forgotten conversations between cuisines through every dish he plates on The Coromandel Thali at the restaurant.
A sensorial, intellectual and emotional journey stitched together with stories and spice, this thali isn’t just a meal. Speaking about the inspiration, Chef Kalpesh notes it came from the tides themselves, from the two coasts shaped by salt, sea and centuries of migration.
“Puducherry and Goa may be far apart, but their colonial pasts, their local ingredients and their ways of cooking are deeply entwined,” highlights the chef, who brings flavours of the two regions beautifully through contrast and balance.
“The pungency of podi meets the soft acidity of white wine. Coastal seafood is tempered by coconut milk and finished with European precision and Goa’s boldness — fermented, pickled, smoked — meets Pondicherry’s slow simmers and spice-laden stews. The result isn’t compromise — it’s harmony, like waves breaking into calm,” the way he goes on to describe it, is enough to make your tastebuds tinge.
A blend of reverence drawn from the rich tradition and soul of Tamil cuisine, and the revolution inspired by the French Revolution’s lesson that food can be political (that what we eat can express defiance), the thali comprises 20 components across courses.
Apart from a digestive, the Ragi Koozh (cold soup); eight pickles featuring beef, prawn, fish, pork, white jamun, cashew, bimbli and raw mango chunda; the thali also includes a vegetable Ratatouille Aviyal and six small bites comprising of Achu Murukku With Pumpkin & Goat Cheese, Gunpowder Pan-Seared Meen, Ras Vada with Vegetable Jus Rasam, Sundal with Toddy Jaggery Vinaigrette, Fried Banana Flower with Blue Cheese and Peacock Clam Albuginea.
It also includes, three bread and rice dishes, Sourdough Culture Parotta, Soru Crisp Papadum and Local Brown Rice with Jackfruit Ney Roast or White Wine Thengai Chicken along with a yum mango kulfi for dessert.
It’s a time capsule really, where each dish is a coastal relic, layered with stories of spice routes, colonists and communities.
“This thali brings together the fire of Tamil kitchens, the finesse of European technique, and the quiet creativity of Goa. It's not fusion — it’s reclamation,” says the chef speaking about the response so far.
“One guest called it 'a history lesson with heat'. Another teared up after tasting the ras vada, saying it reminded them of their grandmother’s rasam but with 'a Parisian passport'", he smiles, adding that people are surprised— by the familiarity, the reimagination and the boldness on the plate.
This 'thali' brings together the fire of Tamil kitchens, the finesse of European technique, and the quiet creativity of Goa. It's not fusion — it’s reclamation.Chef Kalpesh, The ASSA House
To the clink of cutlery, the crash of waves in the distance and the silent poetry of food at the ASSA House, you can unwind and take in the ambience and even sip on cocktails that perfectly harmonise with The Coromandel Thali.
Both the drinks let you slow down and taste everything a little more deeply the chef informs. While the Palorita brings vibrant acidity and tropical depth to the table, the Deusher Martini, with its clean, floral, and botanical profile, offers a crisp contrast to the thali’s complexity and also acts as a palate cleanser.
So, if you want to feel the essence of the old times, to dive into stories that smell and taste, then this experience awaits you in Assagao.
“We want diners to slow down, eat with their hands, and feel the warmth of home in every bite. To connect with the land, the labour, and the legacy behind each element on the plate,” the chef says, inviting all to try it out for themselves.
DETAILS
LOCATION: The ASSA House, Assagao, North Goa
PRICES: Rs 750 for veg, Rs 950 for non-veg
WHEN TO GO: Monday to Sunday (only for lunch)
RESERVATIONS: +91 98348 71620