The structure of shacks has evolved with time, with wooden floorings denying today’s customers the feel of sand under the feet whilst feasting on their meals. But, Jamny's at Velludo beach in Benaulim, is one that tags the past along.
The structure at Jamny’s is old style – just a cover on top to keep the sun away, tables and chairs, a bar counter, a kitchen. The washroom is the only thing that keeps pace with time.
The story of the shack is one of toil and trust built through the years, drawn on the life of shack owner, Joaquina Fernandes, who began working at the age of 14 and has not stopped since.
“I lost my father when I was young, and started working at a shack nearby and going to school at the same time. I used to get paid Rs 300 a month back then. After working for many years, I decided to start my own shack, 18 years back,” says Joaquina, as she relates her life story.
The prawn curry with rice, served by her, has the stamp of home food. The curry has a twisty taste provided by the red chilli used with kokum, tamarind, and the prawns taste fresh.
“My mother prepares the masala at home,” asserts Joaquina, whose experience is evident in the manner in which she handles her clients. Fried fish is another catch at Jamny's with the price varying, depending on the market rates. A prawn-curry-rice sets one back by Rs 400.
Joaquina has a rare style with guests – polite, understanding and an attitude that makes anyone feel at home.
“Many of my clients are repeat guests and that is one reason I have to be around. It feels nice to welcome old friends,” says Joaquina, who underwent bypass surgery last year.
If fish is not one’s favourite, Joaquina takes her guests into a tongue roll with her Chicken Xacuti, another favourite in many local kitchens – especially during special occasions.
The essence of a Xacuti comes from the quantity and quality of the coconut used and the hot Xacuti served at Jamny's has a good measure of both, with the chillies adding to the bite. A plate at the shack will set one back by Rs 380.
Jamny's is in tune with the beach – plenty of seating space and room to keep one’s beach wear around as one nibbles, chats and listens to mellow music as meals are prepared.
“Shacks were always built this way, and that is the reason I have maintained the style of the past. It goes with the food I serve, too,” admits Joaquina.
“I have been coming to this shack for the last 17 years. Apart from the food, the best thing is to know Joaquina. She is a wonderful woman and that keeps getting us back,” admits Simon Silva, a local who comes down every year from the United Kingdom.
Apart from her son Joslan, the duo is assisted by two others in the kitchen. “Last year was tough for us as my mum was hospitalised and I needed to be by her side,” recollects Joslan.
Fresh lime soda at the place costs Rs 70 and a large beer, Rs 170.
“My mum is unique. She raised us up, and at the same time, ran this business. She draws the crowd and is the live wire of this place,” admits her son.
At a time when shacks are catering to the needs of modern times, Joaquina and Joslan cater to those who come to have a feel of the Goa of the past and they do it through their zest for living and cooking.