BY AUGUSTO RODRIGUES
The Aguada Jail Complex thrown open to the public in December 2021 is faltering. Work is still to be completed and the Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC) has decided to charge Goans an entry fee and to hike fees for tourists, leaving visitors with a salty palate.
“We don’t mind paying Rs two hundred per head, but what is there to see, except well-maintained walls and the lovely view of the ocean? The full complex appears to be under renovation and with no one to even guide us around, this was a trip worth selfies,” stated Rani, as her friend kept clicking pictures of her.
The Aguada Jail, which until 2015 was the central prison of Goa – the new one is now in Colvale – has the history of Goa’s freedom struggle connected to it.
And for those who know the past history of the jail, they can never forget the escape of notorious smuggler from Daman Sukur Narayan Bakhia. There were rumours then that he had scaled the wall and jumped into the sea and was ferried across to freedom.
Parts of the jail have been restored trying to maintain those parts that tell the story of Goa’s freedom struggle. But there is little to tell us how the jail functioned after it was turned into a central jail.
The Aguada Jail when run as the central jail of Goa was unique because of where it is located. The feeling of being in jail took time to seep in as water played its part then as it does now.
“There are over a hundred names of freedom fighters, and I guess they are placed here as a homage to them. But, as a tourist, I see no other sense. It would have been nice if we could have seen the kitchen of the jail, the toilets and the recreational facilities available to jailors then,” bemoans Alder from Goa, who came along with his family.
Goans had free admission when the complex was thrown open and tourists were charged Rs 100 per head.
“The rates have been revised from January and Goans are now being charged Rs 100 and the rate for Indian tourists has been hiked to Rs 200. International tourists need to pay Rs 400. Senior citizens from Goa now need to shell out Rs 50 and children between Rs 8 and 15,” stated the person manning the entry counter.
With most rooms closed for renovation, security guards are seen around and most are unable to explain why many of the rooms are not accessible.
“There was a photo gallery here and the same has now been removed,” stated a housekeeping staff.
There was an office at the entrance of the old prison where visitor’s details were noted before visitation rights were conferred. The visitor was escorted to the next block where he or she waited for the prisoner.
It was not possible to see the water because of the high walls, but the same can now be seen giving one the impression that the height of the flooring may have been increased during renovation.
As one meanders through the notices barring entry, work on the restoration of the old jail kitchen is noticeable with grinding stones strewn around. A solitary confinement cell can be noticed with barracks for prisoners. These reinforced the thought that perhaps being in prison for a few days in the old days was not that bad.
“There are plans to digitalise the museum at the far end and work is going on to get it ready. It will take some time, but once it is ready, it will be nice,” informed a worker.
“The restaurant and bar are going to be inaugurated on June 19,” stated a member of the restaurant. Soda at the restaurant is priced at Rs 100 and espresso coffee at Rs 175.
The old locking systems of some barracks are still in place and so are some old light fixtures. The bell that sounded the different calls of the day is restored and so is the chapel, though the benches are missing.
The cell where Ram Manohar Lohia was incarcerated has been recreated along with another torture cell. Obviously, the jail complex is being renovated to draw in more tourists. But as tourist Rani said, “Goa’s freedom struggle is not of interest to us.”
The sound of the waves breaking against the jail wall; a peek into jail life; staff able to provide information and some snacks with drinks could well make their visit worth the fee. But for that, like life in jail, patience is paramount.