A creative visionary and enterprising trendsetter, Bhanu Athaiya occupies the upper echelons of India’s aesthetic realm.
Winning India its first Academy Award in 1983 for the epic biographical film ‘Gandhi’ in the Best Costume Design category, her artistic legacy spanning six decades is hard-hitting and far-reaching, laying the groundwork for women in the creative industry in India – a true feminist icon.
“She paved the way for many female artists and costume designers. She was also the first female artist to win a gold medal at J J College of Arts in Bombay, which was a big deal back then. Athaiya was also the only female artist in the Mumbai-based Progressive Artist Group,” said Brijeshwari Kumari Gohil, vice president of Prinseps, an avante-garde auction house based in Mumbai.
Gohil’s exhibition, Bharat Through the Lens of Bhanu Athaiya, which celebrates the legendary artist’s life and work, is currently underway at the historic Aguada jail and port complex at Sinquerim from December 6, 2023, to January 1, 2024.
Athaiya's contributions as an artist, illustrator, film and theatre costume designer and art advertisement conceptualist are unmatched. Eclectic and expansive, the full extent of her creative oeuvre was shrouded in mystery, begging the need for it to be introduced to more people, especially the younger generations, for her vision to receive due appreciation, according to Gohil.
Prinseps has now remedied this gap by organising the exhibition dedicated to the late artist’s works.
Curated by Gohil, the acquisition of Athaiya’s estate by Prinseps enabled her to dive deeper into the essence of Athaiya’s work. “There are so many beautiful, inspirational layers to her as an artist and designer. Having the access and opportunity to study these and bring them to the public realm makes me feel like we are doing justice to her legacy,” said Gohil.
Gohil also stated that The Aguada heritage complex is the perfect place to host the exhibition as there are parallels between Prinseps’ undertaking and The Aguada’s core ethos of honouring history.
“The Aguada synchronises perfectly with our ideals as it is entrenched in history and heritage and is actively involved in preservation and promotion efforts. This is exactly what we are planning on doing with the Bhanu Athaiya estate,” she said.
The exhibition is broadly chronological, opening with a section detailing Athaiya’s early years in Kolhapur and her decision to move to Mumbai to pursue an education at J J College of Arts.
It then shifts to her time as an invited member of the Progressive Artists’ Group and her contribution to Modern Indian Art, finally culminating in the section devoted to her renowned work in Indian cinema.
Born in princely India, Athaiya descended from a family heritage of Rajopadhayas (royal priests) in Kolhapur and was exposed to several forms of art during her childhood.
This, along with her dabbles in modern art in Mumbai and the subsequent transition of India to a democratic nation post-independence, influenced her artistic vision and understanding of the cultures in India, eventually coming into her own and developing a distinct style.
Athaiya was incredibly hands-on with her work. To put together coherent, historically sensitive yet visually aesthetic costumes, she employed an anthropological approach by travelling extensively to relevant sites and engaging in in-depth research, draft-making and sketching, which are on display at the exhibition.
She was far ahead of her time and is considered Indian cinema’s first Bollywood designer, popularising the usage of handmade Indian fabrics over synthetics.
“Athaiya also created the pre-pleated and wraparound sarees that are in fashion right now for the actress’ comfort while filming the song Aaj Kal Tere Mere Pyar Ke Charche in the 1968 movie Brahmachari. She was a fashion influencer before the existence of social media,” said Gohil.
Prinseps has plans to take the exhibition Bharat Through the Lens of Bhanu Athaiya across India and even internationally to educate more art and culture connoisseurs about Athaiya’s multifaceted legacy.