Morjim and Ashvem, in Pernem, are turning out to be the preferred holiday destinations for tourists from India, and the villagers are accepting them as a fait accompli, with English tourists opting for South Goa.
“Only one British tourist turned up this season, and we told him that since loud music is played till 10 pm, he should decide whether he wants to stay,” says Fatima Fernandes from Ashvem.
"He spent one night here and moved the next day. He was the first and last Englishman who came this season,” she says.
Morjim and Ashvem were the epicentres of English tourists before the Russians discovered the place. The pandemic saw a shift, with the Russians moving towards Arambol and further towards the northern borders.
“We had around 70 to 80 percent occupancy during the so-called lean period and 100 per cent occupancy in December. Most of our guests are Indians coming to get married here,” says Aelrid D’Cruz, the manager of a hotel in Morjim.
“We had many Russians before and during Covid-19 pandemic, but, now, it is mostly Indian guests. The British have moved down South, and I do not foresee them coming back this side,” says Aelrid.
Morjim beach has been declared a turtle nesting site, and, hence, the music is not as loud as it is in other areas of the coastal belt in the north.
“Parties are held, but, they are not as loud as in Vagator. One can go to sleep without being disturbed by loud music,” confirms Saniya, who has come with her office colleagues to spend the weekend in Goa.
Morjim and Ashvem were the epicentres of English tourists before the Russians discovered the place. The Covid pandemic saw a shift, with the Russians moving towards Arambol and further towards the northern borders.
Morjim, according to Avidesh, has still maintained its landscape even though many restaurants belonging to people from outside of Goa is changing the character of the place.
"I hope, this place will not resemble Delhi one day,” he chuckles.
“Outsiders have bought a lot of places. New restaurants have come up, and are mostly frequented by their own. They normally play loud music till 10 at night,” confirmed Seby, who is happy renting bikes.
Renting bikes is big business in Ashvem, and according to Paulo Britto, at one stage, he had 85 bikes.
“I have sold around 30 bikes this season, and now have around 50,” he claims as he waters his plants.
Rooms of homestays in Ashvem are mostly occupied by girls who, according to owner Constancio, “prefer to stay with us to work from home”.
Rooms of homestays in Ashvem are mostly occupied by girls who, according to owner Constancio, “prefer to stay with us to work from home”.
As the sun begins to set in Ashvem, many females can be seen walking out towards the beach or the bars, now belonging to people from outside.
In one joint, a girl can be heard strumming her guitar and singing. When she finishes, a few hands can be heard clapping.
“They (Indian tourists) have still not learnt how to dress when going to the beach, but are now more comfortable being in the water than before. Sometimes, they can be seen in the water for long,” observes Reggie.
If the music gets loud around Ashvem after sunset, it is because the restrictions are few in comparison to Morjim beach which is a turtle nesting site.
“As long as the music stops at 10 pm, I have no problem,” avers Cleta.
Ashvem, the village that once kept tourists away to preserve its heritage, today sings the tourism tune to keep itself fed. And, restaurants are also being frequented by locals, especially on Sundays.
