Goa’s core cannot get washed away by the waves of change

The coastal State, known for its laid-back charm, finds itself caught in the midst of a painful transformation. The Thursday's road-rage incident has unsettled its peaceful way of life
Rising aggression undermines Goa’s reputation as a tranquil haven.
FROM CALM TO CHAOS: The road rage incident in broad daylight at Sangolda in North Goa threatens the State's 'susegad' way of life.
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This week, three events described the difficult conundrum facing Goa, which is today in the throes of unprecedented churn. Each aroused a different feeling – distress, confusion and hope. These are sentiments that sum up local Goans’ current state of mind.

The first is an incident of a road-rage, reportedly in the Sangolda area of North Goa, captured in a video. It shatters the very essence of Goanness by eviscerating its core, embedded in susegad – a way of life dictated by contentment and peace – and joie de vivre (a French phrase defined as ‘exuberant enjoyment of life’ by English dictionaries).

Rising aggression undermines Goa’s reputation as a tranquil haven.
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The graphically violent video shows two fierce tourists, one leaping over a Goan’s car and plucking him out of it – all the while hammering him with his helmet – and the other one, also armed with a helmet, coming around the car and joining in battering the victim.

When their helmets drop or fail, they begin pummelling the local with their fists. The well-built Goan, towering over them, tries to defend himself but is no match for the rage-driven tourists. There is chaos and noise all around on the busy road. 

The situation is de-escalated only by the intervention of the bystanders, who pull the tourists away from the local car driver. The visuals of this less-than-two-minute video are disturbing.

The situation is de-escalated only by the intervention of the bystanders, who pull the tourists away from the local car driver. The visuals of this less-than-two-minute video are disturbing.

It rips Goa’s alluring pictures of white-sand beaches dipped in tequila sunrise, shimmering turquois-sea lined with frothy foam, swaying palms, thick forests soaked in golden sunrays, rolling hills till as far as the eyes can see, grandiosely styled and idyllic Indo-Portuguese houses in shady neighbourhoods, vast stretches of land carpeted with lush paddy fields, lively pubs charged with electric energy, and so many other images that define Goa.

Rising aggression undermines Goa’s reputation as a tranquil haven.
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Such incidents, happening every other day around the State, are lodging an uneasy feeling of distress in local residents as they helplessly see their tranquillity and serenity – fervently nurtured over the years – slipping through their fingers.

The second occurrence seems to be a reaction to such unsavoury episodes frequently playing out in Goa.  A video titled ‘Racist Nightclub in Goa’, filmed by a Scottish musician Robin Alderslowe, pans over a crowd outside a pub showing foreigners getting easy entry even as Indians queued up to be allowed inside it.

Such incidents, happening every other day around the State, are lodging an uneasy feeling of distress in local residents as they helplessly see their tranquillity and serenity – fervently nurtured over the years – slipping through their fingers.

Instantly, the internet erupted in a debate on racism. Some criticised the alleged discrimination on the basis of race while others defended the nightclub’s discriminatory attitude by attributing it to the behaviour and civic manners of Indians.

An online user wrote in defence: “as a Goan I can say that we treat foreigners differently is purely based on behaviour. Indian feel entitled when they spend a little extra money. Think they can do whatever they want”.

Rising aggression undermines Goa’s reputation as a tranquil haven.
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Another one criticised saying, “is there anywhere in the world where people discriminate against their own countrymen. Or is it only India?”

The nightclub incident displays the dichotomy between Goa’s warm hospitality and its zeal to safeguard its conflict-free susegado. Such a dichotomy reeks of confusion and is making Goa befuddled writ large.

The nightclub incident displays the dichotomy between Goa’s warm hospitality and its zeal to safeguard its conflict-free susegado.

The third is the dismissal of Goa government’s petition in the Supreme Court against the High Court’s ban on construction in the Outline Development Plan (ODP) areas of Calangute, Candolim, Arpora, Nagoa and Parra.

Reprimanding the local government, the SC judge reportedly cautioned it against turning the State into a concrete jungle. It is a minor win for the petitioner Goa Foundation but it instils hope.

Rising aggression undermines Goa’s reputation as a tranquil haven.
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Goans have been pushing back hard against encroachments, destruction of forests and hills and indiscriminate changes in zoning plans to facilitate builder and developer lobbies. The legal victory brings a sliver of hope to them that things can still be turned around for the better.

Thus, as Goa straddles a motley of disparate happenings, it is constantly being done and undone to evolve into a new self. But unlike the writings in the sands of its beaches, its core will never get washed away by the waves of change.

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