Some pursuits go beyond expectations. One such was the leisurely drawn-out luncheon at Anar – a recently opened restaurant in Anjuna serving authentic Middle Eastern cuisine tingling with Persian spices and cheffy care.
It began with a drive on the Chogm Road – through the scenic villages of Sangolda, Saligao and onwards – that set the mood for the culinary adventure. In Goa, it is not often that you get to sample Middle Eastern food.
So, a sense of culinary enigma lingered in some corner of your mind as your palate prepared for the Iranian-Arabic treat. Then, a rosy-pink board, with the restaurant’s name scripted in an Arabic font appears amidst a Goan oasis – the palms, the fields and the lush green hills.
The wooden screen or curtain in front of the restaurant’s structure does not reveal much of what lies behind it, except for the profusion of Moroccan lanterns hanging from the ceiling. Its façade gives a feel of hypnotic far-off strains of the Middle Eastern Oudh, Ney and Qanun emanating from it.
Once you cross its inviting foyer, you get a vast view that stretches beyond the restaurant into the fields. What strikes you the most is the conviviality of the place. Its interior is splashed with various hues of pomegranate – English word for Anar, “the jewel of the Middle East”.
Explaining the meaning and symbolism of Anar in the Arab world, Anant Kataria, one of the promoters of the restaurant, reflects; “The name itself symbolises abundance, vitality, and connection, much like the pomegranate, which is the jewel of the Middle East. We want our guests to feel that same vibrancy and warmth with every visit”.
Gusts of wind, from the field, sweep around the breezy restaurant at intervals. There’s uncontained excitement at the two long tables as their occupants try to decipher the Anar’s menu with the able assistance from the Afghan host Sultan Sulieman Attaee, the keeper of the Middle Eastern vibes at the fine-dine place.
The bar counter, illuminated by a massive cool cat mural painted by artist Arun Sharma as a Middle Eastern warrior, operates as a centre of gravity, attracting not just attention but also people to it. The cool cat murals stare out from the walls at all the tables.
Anar’s cocktail menu – Mashrub (Arabic word for drinks) – reads like a poetry with names like Zalabia Walk ((tequila, grapefruit, za’atar shrub) and Yalla Harrisa (tequila, mezcal, harissa).
A recurring ingredient, liberally sprinkled in most of what is served here, is pomegranate molasses. Its distinct flavour runs through most dishes and drinks. A typical culinary journey at Anar starts off with Attaee and the stewards apprising you of their delectable fares.
This is followed by an amuse-bouche, along with your drink, arriving at the table. Its “crispiness and the tanginess” of olive in Persian marinate offers a hint of what is in store for you. The Yalla Harrisa is a refreshing tequila-based cocktail mixed and shaken with fused smoky and tangy notes. This exotic alcoholic cocktail is then served in a ceramic glass.
At this junction, you are invaded by all the goodness of sumac, pomegranate, walnut and mint, and are ready for the next course of the meal.
Tossing in some fun facts, Attaee informs many Arabic-speaking nations have a tradition of guzzling Arak – a popular distilled alcoholic drink made from grapes, aniseed and raisins in the Middle East.
At Anar, guests are served in brass and ceramic plates and cutlery. Here, you can sit down to a wide choice of vegetarian and non-vegetarian mezze. Attaee’s recommendations is muhamarra – a dish prepared with fire-roasted red pepper, walnuts, olive oil, pomegranate molasses and arils – and labneh – made from hung yoghurt, confit cherry tomatoes and garlic sumac with chilli oil.
Our Afghan host rustles up a customized mezze platter that is a combination chicken and mutton kebabs, paired with falafel and charcoal grilled broccoli. The accompanying sesame simit and zaatar challah are perfectly spongy, soft and pillowy.
There is a deluge of kebabs – kebab koobideh, joojeh kebab, jubn shish kebab, kebab chaap and so many more – and stews. On the dessert list, the ubiquitous Middle Eastern sweet treat baklava is company of kunafa, noon khamei and chocolate bar.
We go for the chocolate bar – two small dark chocolate balls with kataifi pastry and pistachio butter, garnished with gold leaf. And, that’s how our mehfil at the Anar comes to a sweet close.
As we rise to leave, swirl of charged energy continues to flow at the neighbouring tables and the wind from the field keeps rushing in to do a playful twirl and beat a swift retreat.
DETAILS
ADDRESS: Calangute - Anjuna Rd, Anjuna, Goa - 403509
DAYS: Wednesday - Monday
TIME: Lunch (12 pm to 3 pm) | Dinner (7 pm - 11.30 pm)
RESERVATIONS: 9209781636
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/anar.goa/